Shopping in Hensinki, Finland

Helsinki, Finland is among Europe's most expensive cities. However, shopping – if you’re willing to spend the money or to hunt for bargains – is as gratifying as anywhere in the world.

Haute Couture

Take fashion, for example. The current crop of designers -- people like Raija Medley and folkloric designer Titvi Ikaheimo -- create clothes that appeal to an international clientele. Medley, a Finn who lives in England, designs bold-patterned coats, dresses and suits in sophisticated patchwork. Ikahaimo's line includes marvelous collars, "aprons," vests and other accessories with trims, tassels and insets of rich, contrasting fabrics that coordinate with the outfits she designs.

Glassware

Then there's Iittala glass, one of Finland's best-known products. Made in a complex about an hour's drive north of Helsinki, the items range from cocktail glasses to one-of-a-kind designer vases. Through the years, Finland's foremost designers have created pieces for Iittala, which are on display in the glassworks' museum, as well as for sale at a shop on the premises. Among the outstanding items are those pieces designed by world-renowned architect Alvar Aalto and the "Orchid" glass sculpture by Timo Sarpaneva. When it was created in 1954 , the Orchid was named the most beautiful object in the world at the Milan Triennale.

The Esplanade

Helsinki's main shopping street is the Esplanade, a broad, leafy promenade lined with the best array of top-quality shops in the country. You'll find one store that's devoted to Iittala glassware and Aarabia's current designs in dinnerware. Another shop deals in Aarikka costume jewelry, whose wooden necklaces, earrings and pins have a distinctive style that sets them apart. Aarika's product line also includes educational toys made of wood, wooden Christmas ornaments and mobiles incorporating bells, elves, Christmas trees and reindeer.

While Americans are generally familiar with the name, Marimekko, they're often surprised to find the variety of items displayed in the company's Esplanade shop. Handbags in bold designs, charming clothes for children, glassware and even gift wrap are attractively displayed along with the adult clothing and fabric by the yard (sometimes on sale at about half price).

Senator Square

The most exciting shopping center in Finland's capital is Senator Square (Senaatin Tori). With shops both on the ground floor and mezzanine, the center is just half a block from the Esplanade on Aleksanterinkatu. Its most unusual store to foreign shoppers, Sauna Soppishop, carries dozens of items such as wooden buckets, ladles, stools and brushes; woven linen robes, towels and slippers that the Finns use in their saunas.

The center also houses what has to be the most charming children's shop in the country -- Fanny & Alexander at Aleksaterinkatu 28. The "Boys' Room," brims with tin soldiers, tops, hoops, marbles, rocking horses and other traditional toys. The "Girls' Room” is a fantasy of lavishly dressed dolls, doll buggies and bassinets made of wicker, music boxes, tea sets, dollhouses and an enchanting selection of furnishings for them. Both rooms contain Fanny and Alexander style clothes for the children, too -- a variety of sailor suits, coats and dresses as well as long white christening outfits and hand- smocked dresses.

The store also includes two other rooms -- one devoted exclusively to things made of paper such as paper dolls, paper circuses, valentines, note paper, gift wrap and dozens of other items. The other is filled with Christmas goods. Even if you're not a shopper, this is one store you shouldn't miss.

Candy, Books and Other Treats

Though Karl Fazer isn't a big name abroad, it's the best known confectionery manufacturer in Finland. The hand-finished chocolates taste as good as they look. Fazer, which also produces delicious candy bars, has several shops in the city. You'll find the best selection of English language books in the country at Stockmann's bookstore, across the street from the main department store (Aleksanterinkatu at Mannerheim).

Be sure to notice the small shops that otherwise would be lost in the crowd. Shops like Brokduna, a trimmings shop on Yrjonkatu where embroidered butterflies, buttons shaped like blue trucks with white wheels, ribbons in every color, appliques and laces are only a few of the findings for sale.

It's even possible to buy authentic icons in Helsinki though the outlets are, of course, limited. Prices at Koru Kivi Spectro Gems, only a few steps from Market Square, range from about $225 to $5,000. The icons are all more than 100 years old, and their prices include certification.

Department Store Shopping

Before you start any serious shopping, you might want to visit a department store since they're the easiest places to get a general idea of prices. Stockmann is considered to be Finland's top department store. Anttila, City-Sokos, Bene! Bene and Eka-Market are other chains with multi-city operations.

Check out the yarn and fancy work departments as well as the clothing, home ware and linen sections. Neckties, fancy plastic kitchen gadgets, paper cocktail napkins and down com- forters all incorporate that quality of design for which the Finns are famous.

Finnish department stores are open longer hours than most other shops, generally from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday and 9 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m. on Saturday.

Alvar Aalto-designed vases

Bright colored sweaters are stylish and practical

Bracelet designed by Bjorn Weckstrom

Glass bird is one of a kind

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